Day 23 Masterton to Carterton - with detours

Colin Grierson
Apr 5, 2024
4 min read

Our plan was to stay near to the start of the Remutaka rail trail, Featherston, Martinborough or nearby. But this is Easter weekend, the nearest accommodation we could find is at Carterton - just 20km closer than we are now. So today we can take our time and explore :-)

We join our hosts Tim and Sue for breakfast at 8am. There is a rainbow outside the window now, it rained overnight but the forecast is for showers and improving. Farewell Tim, Sue we felt very comfortable staying with you - and breakfast was very good too. It's cold out here and rain feels likely. We put on raincoats and set off.

We head for our swing bridge, there is a lake and many cycle tracks just past there. Looking at the sky - dark cloud to the north, blue sky to the south - where we are heading. I video riding over the bridge - it's very cute. Head east - and find a cemetery. Not what we are after so consult the map - ah, the lake and tracks are on the other side of the river. Not far.

The tracks are very good, well used, and confusing. I'm using GPS so it's not a problem - but I feel I should not need to. The lake is man made, quite large and has lots of waterfowl - think Western Springs in Auckland. Very pretty, and seems to be used a lot. We ride around it then head for the town center.

I had thought SH2 went through the Masterton town center, but that seems to be mostly the traveler focused places. One street to the east is the real town center with retail shops, cafe's and so on. Most of the usual suspects are here and there are no empty shops (just saw one - okay, there are very few) Again the town is bigger and livelier than we had expected. It seems another nice place.

We head out of town, toward Gladstone, we'll have lunch there then continue to Carterton - about 30 km, the direct route is only 15, not far enough, and is along SH2. It's calm and the sun appears, beautiful riding again.

The countryside looks great with autumn colours in some of the trees. The hillsides are brown - this part of the country has been very dry.

We see people on the side of the road up ahead and recognise Tony and Jeff from Ekatahuna when we get close. They are talking with two men who've been maintaining an Anzac memorial. We chat for a while and Jamie invites us to join the others for coffee at his house - about 8 km away and 4 km out of our way. 4 km is not far and we are exploring anyway - "Yes please".

Past the turnoff to Gladstone the road stretches south into the distance up the Longbush valley. A southerly breeze has come up. The breeze and slight climb make a surprising difference to effort required and the long straight gives no relief. At exactly 4 km we see Jamie waiting. We are happy to see him. Jamie offers to drive us up to his house - he thinks Tony and Jeff will be a while. We decline the offer and ride up - we have handled much bigger hills than this.

The house is new and modern. I knock, Jamie's wife Ricki, runs to the door and lets us in. "Sit down, make yourself at home, do you want coffee? I'm making soup". Inside, the house is even more impressive - spacious, very artistic, picture windows looking over a really good garden. Wow.

The others arrive after a while. We have a good talk, exchange blog URLs, and learn a bit about each other. Jamie and Ricki have farmed here for a long time but have now leased the farm and retired. Jamie rode Cape Reinga to Bluff long ago. Later he wind surfed across the Waitemata (where he took a ferry on his ride) Now he plans to fill the last gap and is training to row across Cook Strait! He is active in local affairs, has a small golf course just below his house and a B&B that his daughter manages. Theirs is a busy retirement.

We leave the house and Jamie shows us his rowboat. It's long, sleek and a serious looking machine. Jamie has rowed it across lake Taupo, further than the Cook strait distance, now he has to find a support crew and calm weather. He also show us his club rooms and a small brass cannon that they occasionally have fired! Finally we say our goodbyes and are riding again. Thank you Jamie and Ricki, this was a very special visit for coffee - and Ricki's soup was excellent too. We will pass on your generosity.

Riding back is so easy with the breeze behind us now and soon we are at Carterton. It too is a busy town, though not as large as Masterton. We look around town, buy lunch for tomorrow - all the scones in the Supermarket, both of them - Easter has been busy I presume, then find our home for tonight. It's another impressive big house, beautifully renovated and very spacious and comfortable inside.

Our host, Margaret offers to drive us to town for dinner. Thanks, but we are happy to ride, it's flat and only one kilometer. Two people offered to drive us trivial distances today, one did yesterday, several others previously... All with the best intentions - But riding a short distance in good conditions is comfortable and effortless, and having our transport handy is a big plus too. We really do prefer riding and often do so at home for short trips.