Day 19 Hunterville to Makoura Lodge

We are on the road at 9am, headed to Apiti, 70 kilometers to the east with 900m climb according to Google (which always underestimates) This is a medium length ride, we don't have to start early. Tomorrow we ride another 66 kilometers with 400m climb to Palmerston North. Riding directly, even avoiding the state highways, is only 80 kilometers and 500m climb - much easier, and it would have taken only 90 kilometers to ride directly from Whanganui. The Tour Aotearoa (TA) route is designed to show off the country, taking the shortest and easiest route is not a consideration. The riding will be great and we will see countryside we have never visited before. I tell myself to look forward to it.

Our route takes us - North?, on SH1! We are going in the wrong direction on a road we would rather avoid - but after 5 kilometers we turn off, onto SH54 - much better - and head for the Rangitikei river gorge. This is an awesome place, I love looking at the high papa cliffs and river far below us when we drive past here, today we ride across :-), a treat, albeit including a steep climb up the far side.

Looking down into the Rangitikei gorge

Immediately climbing out of the gorge we turn off again, onto Sandon Block road, gravel and as back country as they come.

We are going through beautiful farmland but it's hard, slow riding for Sau Keng - loose gravel and cambers. The first battery shows red after just 23 kilometers! Normally we get more than 30 kilometers from it.

A farmer on a very big tractor meets us on the road, stops and warns us "There is a bridge closed up ahead, so you will get more traffic" We continue and eventually reach our first intersection and then sealed road and then the road to Rangiwahia. We have not seen any vehicles other than the tractor. How quiet is this road normally?

We were planning to stop for lunch at Rangiwahia but just over the top of a decent hill are two cyclists (Mother and daughter?) having lunch beside the road. We join them and chat. They are also doing an informal TA. But doing it tough compared to us. They have a $10 daily accommodation budget, so most nights they are in their tent, they generally make their own meals too. With the recent rain many of their things are wet. The daughter has a gravel bike, not a mountain bike and the bottom gear is not low enough for these hills with all her gear - climbing is hard for her. We start riding together, the road follows a ridge up and down. They are faster than Sau Keng going downhill, but we easily catch them when it climbs again and leave them behind! A bit further on the road drops down to the valley, turns and climbs back up. A dirty trick and we feel for the Mother/daughter.

At the top of one of the hills

Every couple of kilometers we pass bee hives. All the same colour, it's been the same for the last couple of days - this is a seriously big concern they must have many hundreds of hives.

Seven high! Two for the bees, five for honey. It's been a very good summer.

We are finally on flat land near Rangiwahia, here the roads are long and straight. But this is hard for me - more tiring than the hill country - I'm working to keep my speed a bit over 20 km/h. Is it slightly uphill?, is there a headwind?, is it because the effort is continuous? Whatever, it's getting to me. (I checked later, it was uphill) A sign "Free fruit and water for TA cyclists". This is not the first, they like us around here :-)

Past Rangiwahia we make the first turn towards Apiti - The route is a bit odd - northwest for 5km, then a 5km gradual turn until we are travelling in the opposite direction and finally 15km to Apiti. After the turn riding is easier. A treat! A mob of sheep coming towards us. We pull over and film them as they pass. Maybe they are being mustered to be dagged, they need it.

Another climb, but modest, and now we are headed to Apiti. Just 10 kilometers to go and the riding is easy now. I hardly have to touch the pedals to be cruising at 25km/h - yet it looks much the same as the road near Rangiwahia? (The land sloped gradually downhill) I can get well ahead of Sau Keng, stop and treat myself :-)

Easy? I spoke too soon, there is a deep gorge in front of us. Down we go and slowly crawl up the other side, stopping to take photos as it is very impressive. Easy riding on the flat again but... Really?... So soon? Two kilometers on is another, even bigger gorge!

Apiti is clean, tidy and has a nice feel, but also empty and deserted as we pass through.

There is another 7km to Makoura lodge where we stay tonight, not far. We leave the flat land around Apiti, climb into another watershed and cruise down to the entrance. A long driveway and we are here. It's very posh and we are only guests. Dinner is waiting in our cabin - salads and deserts in the fridge, lamb shanks in a slow cooker, a handle of beer on the table for me. A very good meal and we thought again of the Mother and daughter riders. Both of us have work tonight and are busy until bedtime.

Statistics

Distance: 73.9

Climbed: 1192

Time: 5:19