Day 18 Omakau to Clyde

Colin Grierson
Dec 15, 2024
3 min read

We stayed in a grand old house in Omakau. Hawksview B&B. Excellent. It was very comfortable, provided a nice breakfast and the lady running it was nice.

Ophir, just 2 km from Omakau, was the town here, once with a population of 1000 and competing with Clyde. The quality of some of the buildings reflect the optimism of the times that Ophir would continue to flourish after the gold ran out. However the railway was built on the other side of the Manuherikia river, Omakau developed and Ophir declined. However it is still a very pretty old town - and has a busy pub with a functioning kitchen. Not visiting would be a lost opportunity.

Approaching Ophir. Big contrast of the green (irrigated?) grass and dry hills

Look in the window - A sewing machine :-)

Ophir also has a historical bridge over the Manuherikia river, with beautiful stonework. It has an awkward approach, through a cutting with a sharp corner to the right just before the bridge. Apparently this was deliberate, horses often refuse to go into a bridge - this way they are on before they know it.

As we rode back to Omakau along the main road we realise the town is bigger than we thought. We had only seen one end, but it stretches quite a distance down the road. After a while we got back to our start point and onto the rail trail again. It's a strange sort of day. Overhead is heavy cloud, lightly raining. The hills in the distance are in bright sun. I have no idea which we will get as we ride along.

A well disguised house that blends into the landscape

Neptune. We are a long way from the sun now.

A huge paddock of pretty flowering weeds. Why? ... At the far end there are beehives. Is this why?

Sau Keng likes the flowers. We are feeling good

Chattou Creek, back yard and front/side. We had thought to stop here for a coffee and cake but they seem to be hosting a party and there are too many people for us.

Thyme! Finally! Last trip we remember seeing wild thyme everywhere, mountain sides covered in it. This trip, albeit starting from a very different place, we had seen none until now. As I ride on I can smell the thyme. Nice.

We are nearing Alexandra. As well as the thyme there are schist tor (outcrops) they are very impressive here, perhaps because they are so close.

The bridges they built, largely by hand, are also very impressive. This one has been resurfaced with planks running lengthwise. Other bridges are more authentic, and have just had the gaps between the sleepers filled - they - are - very - bumpy. We prefer this.

This is a mountain bike area. Look at the top of the hill. That's a track coming down it. They are mad.

Alexandra. We return to the cafe we used the first time we rode this trail. They made an excellent Caesar salad, we want to eat it again. Alas, they have different dishes now. We get a chicken salad but there is more chicken than salad. Generous yes - but not what we were wanting :-( Also we seem to be the only cyclists now. Last time we were here maybe half the people were cyclists.

After lunch we decide to briefly tour Alexandra before continuing to Clyde. What is this? A wide street. Lots of cars. So many shops. Two supermarkets. We could get lost here!

The piers from the first bridge over the Clutha. Also great masonry. The river was lower when the first bridge was built but the Roxburgh dam raised the level, submerging the bottom of the piers.

There is a sculpture nearby. Is it supposed to represent a buried gold nugget?

We ride back to the trail and start for Clyde. Only 8 km. Dead straight. Where did this wind come from? Some gusts are REALLY STRONG. I try to video it - but then it drops - I did my best. Grapes and horses along the way - very different to agriculture on other parts of the trail!

The trail ends just outside Clyde. Of course we want photos, but no-one is around, we saw lots of people heading the other way to us on day 1, fewer people after that. Selfies don't do this moment justice and we want a photo together.